Few wines are as deeply rooted in the landscape of Piedmont as Moscato Bianco.
UNESCO-listed hills around Canelli to the cellars beneath Santo Stefano Belbo, this is a grape that tells the story of a region. Here is everything you need to know about Moscato d’Asti DOCG, Asti Spumante DOCG and the prestigious Canelli DOCG, including where it comes from, how it is made, and what to eat alongside it.
If Nebbiolo is the king of Piedmont, Moscato Bianco is undoubtedly its queen: charismatic, wonderfully aromatic, and possessed of a history that would put any noble house to shame. The first documented traces of Moscato in Piedmont date back to the 13th century, though some
ampelographers, those admirable souls who devote their lives to scrutinising leaves and berries, argue for even older roots, possibly known to the Romans as uva apiana (the bee grape, on account of its irresistible perfume).
By the Renaissance it was already a star: the 14th-century Bolognese agronomist Pier de’ Crescenzi praised its qualities with an enthusiasm this editorial team entirely understands. Over the following centuries, Moscato conquered the Savoy courts and the palates of half of Europe, becoming the symbol of a distinctly Piedmontese sweetness – elegant, never commonplace.
Moscato Bianco is a variety that thrives on sunny hillsides and generous diurnal temperature swings, not unlike ourselves after a stifling summer. Its production heartland spans the provinces of Asti, Cuneo and Alessandria, across a territory of more than 9,000 hectares under vine.
The communes of Santo Stefano Belbo, Canelli, Castiglione Tinella and Mango represent the sancta sanctorum of this grape: here, vines grow on clay-limestone soils that lend Moscato a subtle minerality that beautifully counterbalances its exuberant sweetness. The hills of the Langhe and Monferrato, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2014, provide the perfect setting: a landscape that looks painted, where every row of vines tells a story of patience and passion. In total, some 52 communes are entitled to produce Moscato d’Asti DOCG.
This is where things become more interesting, and slightly more complex, as is true of everything genuinely worth the trouble. Piedmontese Moscato boasts some of Italy’s most prestigious appellations:
The great classic, produced by the Charmat method. A sweet, lively sparkling wine with aromas of peach, apricot and acacia blossom. Bottle pressure above 3 bar. The wine of celebrations, birthday cakes and Sunday lunches. Awarded DOCG status in 1993.
The more contemplative sibling: lightly sparkling (pressure below 2.5 bar), with a modest alcohol content (4.5% to 6.5%). Sweet yet vibrantly fresh. A wine for quiet reflection – though you won’t reflect for very long before pouring a second glass.
The most fascinating newcomer: a sub-zone of Moscato d’Asti recognised in 2011, selecting grapes from historic vineyards around Canelli. It may also be produced as a late-harvest or passito wine. More complex, more age-worthy, with notes of ripe fruit and gentle spice. The Moscato for those wishing to impress their guests. Staying in Canelli, guests of Villa del Borgo have the rare privilege of exploring Canelli DOCG wines at their source.
Let us be frank: Moscato is a wine that has no fear of being itself, and its pairings reflect that exuberant personality. Tradition pairs Moscato d’Asti throughout a meal with Piedmontese dry pastries, amaretti, paste di meliga, baci di dama, but it would be a shame to confine it to desserts alone.
Try Moscato with blue cheeses (Gorgonzola above all): the contrast between sweet and pungent is one of the most memorable revelations the Italian table has to offer. Asti Spumante is magnificent as a summer aperitivo or alongside fruit tarts, pandoro and panettone. Canelli DOCG in its passito and late-harvest versions finds its ideal companion in foie gras, aged mountain cheeses and quality dark chocolate, a pairing that will invariably raise an eyebrow or two before, inevitably, drawing a smile of approval.
Canelli sits at the heart of Moscato country, and there is no better base from which to explore it than Relais Villa del Borgo. Whether you join us for a private wine cellar tour, an aperitivo on the terrace, or simply a quiet evening with a glass of Canelli DOCG and the hills stretching out before you – this is Piedmont at its most authentic. Book your stay at Relais Villa del Borgo and explore the culture, history and flavours that define this region.